 Wherever you go, the sea is always present. Choose a route south or north and
the river and the sea will be always there. South you find endless sandy
beaches. Although the sea will not be our single destination as we will travel
all over this territory, the S. Roque Mountain, the Lima Riverbanks, the Vila
Franca lowlands...
Let us leave Viana through the ancient iron bridge towards Darque. If there is
not much traffic, take time to appreciate the river and its waters. If the
bridge swings, do not get frightened as the train may be as well getting
through it.
Darque is near by with its beautiful Casa do Cais Novo. We may drive towards
the sea, to Cabedelo, with its campings and an endless sandy beach.
But we may also try to follow other directions, such as that to Anha, to
admire its Paço. Situated out of the main road, presents its chapel quite
separated from the main house – almost leading us to suppose that it was later
rebuilt in a different place. In fact, its façade, with a large veranda, is a
century older than its temple dedicated to Santo António.
This chapel was built in 1625, according to the orders of João da Gorreta, who
knew how to choose the artists. Regrettable is the fact that the original
Manueline altarpiece, with woodcarving instead of paintings and with deeply
carve columns has been extremely painted new. It is fine candlesticks with the
shape of angels, reminding the best pieces of Alcobaça Monastery, also need
urgent repair work.
From this place we may drive on towards Amorosa, a fashionable beach, in spite
of being sometimes too windy. Or try to get in S. Romão do Neiva Monastery,
formerly from the Benedictine and presently private as it often happens in
Portugal.
If we get into the church we will find out that its main altarpiece presents a
woodcarving work of the transition period from Mannerism to Baroque. It was
originally a work meant for the Tibães Monastery, the home of the Portuguese
Benedictine Order, the wealthiest in the Entre Douro and Minho Region. In the
middle of the decade of 1750 it was transferred to this temple of S. Romão, as
it had been replaced by other.. In the monks’ area, presently private, there
is evidence that this was probably one of the less wealthy convents, as its
cloisters were never finished..
The Castelo do Neiva beach, with its seaweed gathers, wearing a Roman costume,
invites us in the Summer. And so does Monte Castelo. But let us follow now
towards Alvarães, a parish famous for its ceramic factories.
The church, deeply rebuilt in 1929, looks modern. However, its interior still
keeps the ancient altarpieces, among which we point out the one at the
main-chapel from the national period and that of Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte,
at the body of the nave, from the same period, but that evidences a change in
trends and also a good quality “Lamentação da Virgem”, though inferior to the
one we found in Correlhã.
Vila do Punhe is not far. And here we should admire the cathedral, similar to
the Tibães Monastery. It is a large temple with a Latine cross, a rococo
altarpiece, that according to an ancient parish notary “caused general
sensation and surprise”. When we look at it, we agree with these words. I am
only surprised not to have found it before in any Portuguese Art History book.
Do not leave the place without admiring the church body and the two
altarpieces, from the same period, though not of the same quality. Next to it
is the Nossa Sra. das Neves Chapel, where one of the most important religious
festivities of the Alto Minho takes place (5th August). Only surpassed in the
municipality by that of Sra. da Agonia. Its wooden frameworks for carrying
statues of saints in processions cause great surprise as well as the
performance of the play “Auto da Floripes”, a medieval play, that tells us the
story of the fight between Charles the Great and the Turkish.
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